"Modern Masters"
Spirit
By: John Mariani

There are flashier chefs in Washington, D.C., but none better than Todd Gray at Equinox, whose knowledge of French and Italian cooking enhances a spirited American personal style. He intensely focuses his flavors rather than explodes them with fireworks, and he decorates his plates to look beautiful, not ostentatious. Gray respects his ingredients and tries to bring out the best in them in dishes such as lamb in an herb crust with braised fennel and fesh mint; a plate of Mission figs and bright green arugula cuddled beneath a slice of country ham; and a creamy wild mushroom soup with baby spinach and roasted garlic. Such delicious food earned Equinox spot on Washingtonian Magazine's Best New Restaurants of 1999 and a Readers' Choice placement as Best Newcomer in Gourmet magazine. That Gray pleases so many people with such a reasonably priced menue-entrees run $18 to $23-is all the more reason to hurry over to Equionx.

Raised in Fredericksburg, Virginia, Gray has not strayed far from the area, at first working tables at La Petite Auberge in Fredericksburg. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, he went on to the very top dining rooms in Washington, including Jean-Louis at the Watergate and Galileo. He also went abroad to learn authentic Italian cooking techniques at the renowned Del Cambio. And he has given back as much as he's goten from the area: Active in many national charity food events such as the March of Dimes and Share Our Strenth, Gray also helps sponsor local high school sutdents for culinary internships and mentoring programs.

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