"Todd Gray's Elegant New American Simplicity"
Washingtonian

By: Rober Shoffner The understated elegance of Equinox's setting, with its dove-gray walls and pewter-colored trim, its two styles of lighting sconces-some resembling oversized origami, others looking like zucchini blossoms- and its glass-enclosed dining terrace, provides a showcase for the elegant simplicity of chef/owner Todd Gray's Modern American cooking.

Gray earned his local reputation at Galileo, where for the past seven years he maintained its national-class kitchen while owner Roberto Donna was opening new restaurants in rapid succession. Gray's resume also includes tours of duty with French classicist Robert Greault at La Colline, and avant-garde modernist Jean-Louis Palladin at the Watergate Hotel.

But while Gray's work owes it precision and sharply focused flavor to the techniques learned from his mentors, his simple dishes are largely free of either Italian or French influences. And in this age of chef as artist, there is a refreshing modesty that characterizes Todd Gray's cooking: His dishes for not scream, "Look at me!" Rather, at their best they are quiet statements on the primal flavors of their main ingredients.

Equinox's prices are unusually fair: Main courses at lunch are under $15; at dinner, under $20. At $50-or $70, if you choose to include a glass of wine selected by the chef to complement each dish-Gray's five-course tasting menu is the city's top fine-dining value. Almost all of its dishes are different from those on the a la carte menu, and together they provide a good introduction to Gray's interpretation of Modern American cooking.

The only glitch was encountered in a late June visit: In the first course, a garnish of trendy Peckytoe crab from Maine was overwhelmed by the splendid intensity of the sweet yellow-bell-pepper soup. The richer, sweeter flesh of local blue crab would have been more of a match for the velvety puree.

Next came the luxury of pan-caramelized duck foie gras, its fatty richness leavened by the refreshing acid edge of the spoonful of apple-rhubarb compote upon which it was presented. It was followed by a stunner of a dish, sure to become a much of a signature at Equinox as are pepit-crusted salmon filet with roasted peppers, sweet corn, and fresh basil. The lightly spicy, sweet-and-sour barbecue sauce not only created a fine crust on the moist-centered, grilled filet but also masked the chalky flavor and oiliness characteristic of salmon, transforming the fish into something as light and clean-flavored as cod.

The main course, a small cut of veal loin garnished with a nugget of sweetbreads, roasted shallots, and barely wilted leaves of baby spinach and presented on a plate sparely glazed with reduced veal stock, might have graced a table at the Willard Hotel during the turn of the last century. Its interplay between richness and lightness, the use of vegetables as seasonings rather than as garnishes, and the technical proficiency evident in its veal glaze make it an excellent example of conservative Modern American cooking at its best. A remarkably light Piemontese chocolate custard garnished with marinated berries-the only obvious borrowing from Gray's days in Galileo's kitchen-provided a sweet end to Gray's progression of impressive courses. Some diners, for whom the expenditure of $50 is mitigated by a behemoth of a steak and a couple of side dishes at the Palm, may view the portions of the tasting menu at Equinox as too dainty. Most will leave satisfied by the variety of flavors.

The weakness of Todd Gray's cooking emerge in Equinox's lunchtime menu- when many patrons are drinking iced tea rather than complementing the food with a glass or two of wine. While one can start with a wonderful plate of fennel-seasoned sausage with kale and baby onions, or a luscious soup of local sweet peas with yogurt and mint, there also is a dish of jumbo shrimp whose plump sweetness is dulled by an under-salted, over-chilled potato-leek salad. Then there are such timid main dishes as the delicately flavored halibut, overwhelmed by its bed of vinegary cucumber slices, and the creative overreaching that leads Gray to stud backfin crabcakes with a tiny dice of mango.

But weigh there failures against such successes as an appetizer of shredded duck confit presented atop whole-wheat polenta or a main course of thinly sliced muscovy duck breast served atop a "slaw" of cabbage and julienne duck leg, and you'll understand Equinox's likability. Now it is a work in progress; six months from now, Equinox will be recognized as one of our area's best Modern American restaurants.

Back to Reviews