Beyond The Cover
Restaurants And Institutions
January 1, 2002

There are many ways to dazzle the diner, but Todd Gray, chef-owner of Equinox In Washington, D.C., takes a sensible approach. Seasonal and local ingredients lead his strategy. Combinations are balanced but intriguing, heeding the importance of texture and contrast. Gray also anticipates what diners want, and lately that's comfort and familiarity. A side dish comes in the form of truffled macaroni and cheese or onion soup accompanied by crostini with liver and onions. Steak and cheese brings together strip loin beef on brioche with black truffle jus. "People are so much more focused on being together and wanting real food that sort of soothes the soul and relieves the stress of the everyday world," Gray says.

Grilled cheese scales new heights when the bread is brioche and the cheese Gruyere. Gray serves the sandwich triangles garnishes with basil and teardrop tomatoes; or alongside creamy tomato soup.

To satisfy the desires to sample and share food, Gray offers his version of small but classic items. His interpretation of potpie is headlined with veal simmered among diced root vegetables and then topped with puff pastry. Gently braise the protein first for the best flavor and texture.

Crab cakes are ubiquitous but do not often consist, primarily of large chunks of lump crab bound by just enough brioche bread crumbs, mayonnaise, mustard and capers. Young greens - such as arugula - tossed with lemon, olive oil and roasted red peppers add contrast.

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