Now school is back, so is the worry of mothers working at home or out in the business world of what on earth to feed the family for dinner.

While calling up take-out Chinese or the pizza delivery service feels like a liberating holiday-ish thing to do, somehow once that first school bell has rung, perpetuating the practice makes moms uneasy. It doesn't quite seem maternal enough.

But before you object that there's no time to do anything else, that balancing work with home is an unending struggle, consider the example of Ellen Gray.

A fervent but unpretentious food enthusiast, she is the Washington-born-and-raised wife of top chef Todd Gray of award-winning Washington restaurant, Equinox. Their son, Harrison, now 3, was born four months after the restaurant opened.

Which just had to fit in with Ellen's deep involvement in its running and promotion.

When he was small, the job was relatively easy.

"From day one he would sleep in the bus-station in a stroller." She hostessed with him strapped to her chest in a baby sling.

The foodies who flocked to the restaurant were unfazed by the spectacle.

"Todd Gray and I brought an element to that downtown scene which they loved. A mom-and-pop operation one block, literally, from The White House."

Then Harrison grew into toddlerhood, and the balance became a little trickier. Ellen rented office space upstairs and fitted it out with an Oriental rug, a TV, and dimmer lights. The prep 'commis', who wanted more time with her own small children, brought them in and kept a nanny eye over them all. The restaurant staff took turns babysitting.

And Ellen, who had gone from once creating meals in the kitchen of a scuba boat to working for the nation's largest food suppliers, Sysco, selling food to chefs (so meeting her future husband); who had moved on to expand the east coast market for top duck product specialists, D'Artagnan; who had then become Sales Manager for International Gourmet with whom she had forged a distribution agreement with D'Artagnan; who had created the first in-house cooking program for Fresh Fields Whole Food Markets in the Washington area -- that same inexhaustible Ellen carried on handling the restaurant's public relations and marketing and cheerful interaction with its guests while popping upstairs to check on the baby.

But as all mothers know, as babies get older, the struggle for balance becomes harder. The Grays' house is 3 miles from the restaurant. And Harrison, like all children, gets sick sometimes. Then Ellen has to drop everything at the restaurant, however critical, and rush him home to tend to him.

She is the first to acknowledge how lucky she is to have her own business. She doesn't have an employer with limited patience. But businesses are like babies - they too need full attention. "The downside is as much as you have him there, you still have to separate. You really can't have it all."

So what does a working mom turn to, to pull off a spread at the end of a long hard shift that will please a three year old and his award-winning chef father, without too much extra effort?

She can tell you herself.

"OK. I'm going to tackle the inconceivable - Tofu! Yep, my 3 year-old loves it and it is one of the most nutritious foods out there. This recipe is great because you can use any vegetables you happen to have on hand - so it is a bit of a clean-out-the-fridge deal. If you pair it with rice, you have a complete meal! Enjoy."

1 package Tofu ("I like the Whitewave brand") =- frozen and defrosted extra firm. ("Don't skip this step - it is worth it!")

3 tbs real butter or olive oil

2 each red and green peppers, sliced and ribs trimmed

1 yellow onion, sliced

8 ounces mushrooms, chopped

1 can coconut milk ('I don't like the 'lite' version - use the real stuff. Be sure to shake the can vigorously before using to incorporate milk. My son loves this job!')

1 tbs slivered almonds

1 tbs curry powder, or more or less depending on your heat preference or brand instructions salt and pepper to taste

Squeeze excess water out of tofu. Use dry dishtowel and wrap block of tofu in it and press hard between your palms to squeeze excess water. Slice tofu into cubes.

Melt butter in a big nonstick sauté pan until bubbly. Add cubes (you may have to do this in batches). Be sure all sides get brown, so turn with a spatula frequently. When tofu is golden, sprinkle salt to taste and pat dry on paper towels.

In the same pan use a touch more butter or oil and sauté peppers. Remove from the pan and sauté onion until translucent. Remove from pan. Next sauté mushrooms till juices are reduced.

Add tofu, peppers, onions and mushrooms back to pan. Add coconut milk and curry powder to taste. Reduce milk by half, creating a thick sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve with almonds sprinkled over on top of rice for a filling one-dish meal.

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